Back from the End of the World
It's not really the end of the world, but standing on the sunny expanse of Long Point, at the end of Cape Cod, at low tide, seeing the point curve and the ocean curve and the earth curve in the bright brilliant sunshine of a cerulean sky dotted by white Rorschach puffs certainly feels like you're at the end of all things.
We spent a week in one of our favorite places on Earth, Provincetown, MA, 02657, with our friends Greg and Tom. P'Town is a beautiful place, good for the soul and great for the gay soul, as it's the most open and queer welcoming place I've ever been (more so than San Francisco, West Hollywood, or Key West). "As you are," is how Greg put it, and he's right.
There's not much to do without a car in P'Town, other than wander, and eat, and drink and shop and make merry. The beaches are fantastic, and the sunsets on the water spectacular. P'Town is home to some incredible restaurants (we gays do like to eat and drink well). A visit to Zagat will show you what's available and the reviews are pretty much dead-on. They are missing the amazingly good Cafe Heaven, a place that Bob and I have gone to each of the four times we've been to Provincetown in the past twelve years. Unassuming and diner-ish in looks, they've got the best breakfasts I've ever had, anywhere on the planet.
Having nothing to do and doing only what you want in a very friendly environment with great sun and sand and people is really good for the soul. No wonder I can't wait to go back.

So I've mentioned that Phuket, the island, is a bit of a dud as a destination. It's the nearby islands and coastline of the Andaman Coast that are the real draws to the area.
In the minds of most people in the West, Phuket is an indyllic, unspoiled, tropical paradise matched by few places in the world. While it's true that Phuket island is indeed tropical, it's hardly unspoiled or idyllic. I was surprised, actually, at the level of unplanned expansion that covers the island and at how uninteresting the island was itself.
You can't go very far in Bangkok without passing a wat, or temple. There are many (probably hundreds) in Bangkok, and given our limited time in the city, we only visited a few. They're the big ones, and worth visiting by anyone going to the city.
Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Rising Sun, is across the river from the other two wats, and is more run down than the others. It carries within it, however, a rich beauty, and has some of the most fantastic ceramic work I've ever seen. The exterior is made of ceramic pieces, and it has a lot of beautiful detail. It's extra beautiful as the sun begins to set, in spite of the grime and black mold that has taken over large portions of its exterior. It's also the only wat you can climb, and when you do, you get a really nice view of the Old City in Bangkok.
One of the best parts — probably the best part of the trip (at least for Bob) — was meeting Jumbo, or Puck-Put, as Bob called him.
Jumbo would also make trips to the ocean each day, and if you happened to be in the right place at the right time, you could take a swim in the ocean with him. He's highly energetic, and very playful, and is just beginning to learn how to bring people up on to his back. In the water, this translated in to rushing around from person to person, practically knocking them over in an attempt to get them on his back. I can't begin to describe how amazing and joyful it was to play with him, and to watch him play with Bob in the shallows of the ocean. He swam and dunked himself in the water, rolled in the sand, and went back for more. His mahout finally had to drag him out of the water and off to his other responsibilities (or maybe just a break from the people).
We had the incredible good fortune of staying in two excellent hotels while we were in Thailand. I'd heartily recommend them to anyone going to Bangkok or Phuket.
In Phuket, we stayed at the amazingly beautiful JW Marriott Resort and Spa. Isolated towards the northern end of the island, the Marriott resort in impeccably designed, beautifully run, full on the amenities (3 swimming pools, 6 restaurants, the best spa in Southeast Asia), and is therefore really expensive. Fortunately, my parents picked up the rooms for us via their membership in the Marriott Vacation Club. I can't imagine what it would have cost otherwise (well, I can, but it's not pretty), but for those who do pay, it's likely worth it. The service is excellent, and the place is an ideal location to hang out and relax for a week under the South Asian sun. And the beach massages for a measly 400 baht ($12) an hour? Awesome.
Bob and I just got back from 12 days on the other side of the world in a beautiful, if homogenously modernized, country named Thailand. It was both of our first time in Asia, and we enjoyed it a great deal. We spent a few days in Bangkok then went off to Phuket, a resort area in southern Thailand, for the majority of our trip. In spite of a nasty bout of food poisoning the first night in Phuket (damn you river prawns!), the whole trip was pretty damn great.
